Preparing for my Peeps

Preparing your chick's initial first home (the brooder) takes some planning, as the fragile hatchlings require a consistent environment of 90-95 degrees during that critical first week. Afterward, the chicks can tolerate a decrease of 5 degrees each week thereafter until their first head feathers appear.

Start your chicks in a safe place to protect them from family pets and preditors.

Before the Chicks Arrived I Gathered the Following:

• LARGE CARDBOARD BOX that allows at least 6 sq.” per chick
• HEAT LAMP or reflective casing with a minimum 100-watt light bulb for chicks started indoors or in warmer weather (250-watts for chicks started outdoors or in cooler weather.)
  
• FOOD - chick starter granules; if you purchase chicks that have been vaccinated against certain diseases, make sure your feed is not medicated or it will nullify the vaccine.
  
• FEEDER- the round ones with little holes works well (see photo below), although the first few days my chicks did better with their food sprinkled on a flat plastic lid.
• WATER - a chick waterer (use at least 2-4 tablespoons of sugar per quart to provide needed energy the first week.)
• BEDDING - Wood shavings (not saw dust) or straw works well; don't put them on newspaper, they need the "traction" to move around in the brooder.
• GRIT – by day 3 the chicks will need “chick grit” to help digest their food; just sprinkle it on their food.
  
• THERMOMETER to measure the heat inside the brooder; you'll need to adjust the height of the bulb until the correct temperature is maintained; and check the temperature often. I experimented and got it right before the chicks arrived.

Here's What to Do

• Step1 - A cardboard box or large plastic box is a good choice for starters. Ensure spacing of about 6 square inches per bird; they'll need more as they grow. Prepare the brooder with 1-2 inches of wood shavings or straw bedding beneath them.

• Step 2 - Suspend a 100-watt light bulb set in reflective housing unit to radiate heat efficiently above the cardboard box to keep the chicks warm. Maintain a temp of between 90-95 degrees during that critical first week, then 5 degrees cooler each week until they get their head-feathers.

• Step 3 - Buy a chick waterer. This is by far the most efficient method of providing fresh water for your chicks as saucers spill easily making the brooder wet and unsanitary for the chicks. Provide them fresh water daily and ensure the chicks have continuous access.

• Step 4 - Buy chick starter granules for their first food. To get the chicks started, sprinkle some on the floor of the brooder or in a small plastic butter dish lid; the chicks peck just like the big boys do. Feed the starter granules for eight weeks, then switch to chick grower. Do not feed "scratch" feed as it doesn't contain all the nutrients the chicks need for maintenance and healthy growth.

• Step 5 - When your chicks first arrive, watch them closely for several days. It's not unusual to lose a few, as shipping can be hard on them-especially if they got cold in transit. Closed eyes, lethargy and/or drooping wings should raise a red flag; affected chicks should be isolated from the others and observed carefully in a separate box. I placed my weak one in a small plastic cup on its side so the chick could get out if needed. I also took the chick to the water and feed this way, as she was weak and appeared to have an injured leg. This little Blue Silkie made a full recovery.

• Step 6 - Keep the brooder clean and sanitary; changing the bedding once a week should be adequate and maintain the correct temperature in the brooder.

After the Chicks Arrive

Place them under the heat lamp as soon as they arrive. It's critical to show them their water and food immediately after you get them. Poke their beaks in the sugary water and in the chick feed to "train" them to eat and drink. I found that tapping my finger where the food is located showed them how to "peck" and most of them mimicked my finger in the chick feed. Don't let any of them get "lazy" as they do need to eat and drink. I was persistent with all my chicks until they caught on.

Did You Know…

• That you don’t need a rooster for a hen to lay eggs?


• That some breeds of bantam hens, for example the Araucana, is known for laying bluish-green eggs?


• That you can tell if a hen will be a brown or white egg layer by the color of her ear lobes? A chicken with red ear lobes will generally lay brown eggs; white ear lobed chickens will be white egg layers!


• That you can tell if an egg is fresh by putting it in cold water? A fresh egg contains little air so it will sink; an older egg will float!

• That pullets (hens that are under a year old), whether they are big-bodied or bantams, will lay small eggs at first but larger eggs as they mature?

• That a young hen will lay one egg every 3-4 days, but a hen at her peak will average 2 eggs every 3 days?